Quick Pav Bhaji Masala

Ingredients

1 tablespoon Garam Masala (page 62) (See below)

2 teaspoons Kashmiri red chili powder

2 teaspoons amchur

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom

2 tablespoons neutral oil or ghee

1 large white onion, minced

3 or 4 Roma tomatoes, chopped, or 1/2 (14-­ounce) can crushed tomatoes

4 medium red potatoes, boiled until mashable and peeled

1/2 head cauliflower, boiled until mashable

1 cup frozen green peas, boiled until mashable

Salt to taste

1 to 2 cups water

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, plus more for the bread

4 to 8 potato rolls or hamburger buns

Lemon wedges, for serving

Sliced onion, for serving

Ingredient Note

If you don’t want to make the pav bhaji masala, you can easily buy a premade version at most Indian grocery stores or online. Just replace the quick pav bhaji masala from the recipe with about 2 tablespoons of the premade masala blend.

 Freezer Note

Leftover bhaji will keep in an airtight container in the freezer for at least 3 months.

Makes about 1 cup

Garam Masala

1/2 cup coriander seeds

1/4 cup cumin seeds

3 tablespoons cardamom seeds

16 whole cloves

4 to 6 inches cinnamon sticks

4 star anise pods

2 teaspoons fennel seeds

1 teaspoon ground nutmeg

Directions

How did one of Mumbai’s most famous street foods—­the ultimate late-­night snack—­become an easy weeknight ­dinner in America? Pav bhaji consists of toasted bread (pav) and mashed, seasoned vegetables (bhaji), plus plenty of butter (but they for some reason left that out of the name). People like to describe it as “Indian sloppy joes,” and while visually they have similarities, the taste could not be more different.

At its simplest, pav bhaji is made from mashed potatoes and peas, cooked in a tomato-­onion gravy and then heavily seasoned. If you have other vegetables on hand that mash well, feel free to throw them in: cauliflower, eggplant, carrots, green beans. If you have a freezer stocked with frozen vegetables, this is the dish to make when last-­minute guests come over.

Instead of pav, a type of soft bread roll whose origins are rooted in the Portuguese colonization of India’s western coast, my recipe calls for griddled potato rolls or hamburger buns. The best way to serve pav bhaji is with lemon wedges and a mountain of raw onions. There is a running joke in my family that I eat my onions with a little bit of bhaji.

In a small bowl, combine all of the quick pav bhaji masala ingredients; set aside.

In a large pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes, until it begins to soften, then add the tomatoes. Let the mixture cook down until the tomatoes start to get jammy and the oil starts to separate from the mixture, 7 to 8 minutes. Add the potatoes, cauliflower, and peas and gently mash them into the tomato gravy—­I prefer to leave some small pieces of the vegetables so the mash has some texture. Add the pav bhaji masala, salt, and 1 cup water and stir. Bring the mixture to a simmer and let the flavors meld for about 10 minutes, then turn off the heat, cover, and let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Add up to 1 cup more water if needed; you want the texture to be like sloppy joes—­spoonable but not thick.

Heat a large skillet or griddle over medium heat. Spread a generous amount of butter on the cut sides of each roll and griddle them until the bread is lightly toasted, about 1 minute.

Pop the remaining 1 tablespoon butter into the mashed vegetable mixture and stir until it melts. I like to squeeze several lemon wedges over the vegetables and top with a proper flourish of raw onions before piling it onto a griddled roll.

Storage Note

When stored in an airtight container in a cool, dark place, garam masala can last for at least 6 months, if not longer. Do not freeze the spice mix, as sometimes the flavor can change.

Garam masala might translate to “hot spices,” but don’t make the mistake of thinking that it is something that is light-­your-­mouth-­on-­fire spicy. “Garam” in this case points to the fact that it’s a blend of warm spices that add a cozy layer of flavor to any dish. Every family has their own combination of spices that make their garam masala—­maybe it’s heavier on cumin, contains less cardamom, or has no star anise whatsoever. This is the blend my mom, Hina, likes to make, and the one I cooked with while growing up. Everything feels so rushed these days, but gently toasting your own spices, coaxing out their fragrances, is such a calming act. It requires you to slow down and really pay attention—­even if only for a few minutes. A batch will last for at least six months stored in an airtight jar. (It makes a great gift!)

In a small saucepan, combine the coriander, cumin, cardamom seeds, cloves, cinnamon sticks, star anise, and fennel seeds. Toast the spices over medium-­low heat, stirring constantly, until fragrant and toasty, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and carefully pour the spices onto a plate or wide bowl to let them cool. Add the nutmeg to the spices. When the spices are at room temperature, transfer to a spice grinder or blender and whizz into a fine powder. Transfer to an airtight container and seal well.